Weight of pump: 180g
Weight of pump including brass fitting: 625g
Centrifugal pump with brushless motor: 75mm x 35mm
Length of brass fitting: 150mm
To install the pump you need to remove 115mm of straight pipe
Click Link Above to see the head & flow output figures for a single SPB. please be aware that the output from a pump is always a compromise and a balance between pressure and flow provided by the electrical energy you put into the pump.
If a fixed amount of energy is imparted into the water it can increase pressure and it can increase flow and for every application there is an optimum pressure/flow ratio.
In order to give a strong spray pattern a WRightChoice Shower head combined with a single SPB will lose 2.3 metres head in the shower head to create a fast/strong spay pattern and deliver 5.9 litres of water.
Remember that showers mix hot and cold so you will exceed the output of the hot alone in a normal home, but your shower head may not be as good as ours, you may a mixer that is designed for Central European high pressure systems. If you do have problems you can double boost the hot with a SP21S or balance flow with a SP22S.
Shower Power Booster Range
Recommended Pump for Gravity Showers – Gravity & Mixed System Supply
The first choice for most customers is a single SP2B (Automatic Pump) on the hot feed.
An SP2B & SP1U is recommended for a Double Boost.
An SP2B &SP2U is recommended to Balance Hot & Cold gravity Feeds.
Recommended Pump for Electric Showers – Mains & Gravity Supply
A Single SP2 will normally deliver enough pressure.
An SP2 & SP1U is recommended for a Double Boost
Recommeded Pump for Combi Boilers – Mains & Gravity Supply
Two pumps, an SP2 & SP1U are recommended to deliver enough pressure
The ShowerPowerBooster supplies the perfect flow for a single shower or tap flow and you will be able to get this water 24/7 everyday of the week provided there is water in the main.
It is illegal in the UK to take too much water, this would also pose a serious risk to your health and the health of your neighbours.
Even if you wanted a big pump to take enough water to run 3 taps at a time please don’t do it as it not only stirs up the mains but collapses the pressure so you neighbours cannot have water and when they do get water it will probably be contaminated.
Since the ShowerPowerBooster limits flow rather than pressure your best choice for boosting mains water pressure into a home is to double boost and use a SP21S so you get maximum pressure without exceeding the 12 litres a minute maximum. The ShowerPowerBooster will work anywhere in the world as it is powered by a transformer which runs from a 110 to 240 ac power supply which converts it to 12 volts, or runs directly from a 12 volt car battery. Outside the UK we recommend you buy 22mm to 3/4 inch adaptors so you can easily connect to existing local pipework.
The reason for limiting the amount of water you can ‘pull’ from a water distribution main is that a large pump with large suction can cause depressurisation of the incoming pipe which will allow contamination, sewage, and other nasties into the pipe and stir up sediment. In England, Northern Ireland, Wales, and Scotland, the original ‘Water Bylaws’ (now the ‘Water Regulations Guide’), set a limit of 12 litres a minute as the maximum rating of a pump to avoid risk of de-pressurisation.
WATER REGULATIONS GUIDE UK (including Water Bylaws 2000 (Scotland)
Page 3.16 Regulation G6.2
Showers and other appliances which are supplied with water from a pump located either upstream or downstream of a mixing valve and capable of delivering more than 0.2 litres a second (12 litres a minute), may not be supplied with water direct from a supply pipe unless written approval has been obtained from the water supplier.
Page 3.16 Regulation R6.2
An installer will need to obtain the Water Supplier’s written permission before any pumped shower drawing more than 0.2 litres a second may be supplied directly or indirectly from a supply pipe.
Plug in the transformer and pumps before fitting, and simply blow through the pump to activate the flow switch (automatic pump only). This was done at the factory, so you should not find a problem, but for peace of mind a pre fitting check is recommended.
For further checks go to YouTube and type ‘Shower Power Booster – Pre Fitting Checks’ or Follow the Link.
The LED light on an SP2 (Automatic Pump) is a useful diagnosticl tool:
No LED light – Pump has no power
Constant LED light – Flow switch has power
Slow flashing light – Transformer fault
No flashing light or pump running when blowing – Rotor jammed
Fast flashing light and pump runs when blowing – Non-return valve closing correctly and flow switch turning freely
Please note that after switching off the flow switch will delay switching the pump on again for up to 20 seconds (depending on switching program). This delay is deliberate and allows pumps to deal with air entrained in a system and is not a fault.
They can be installed on both vertical & horizontal pipe. When installing on a horizontal pipe please ensure that the white motor & blue, yellow, or green LED, are hanging below the feed. Make sure that the arrow on the body of the pump is in the same direction as the water flow. DO NOT hold the white barrel when installing.
See image below for installation details:
Pumps can be installed on either Copper tube or plastic pipe – please use an insert when installing on plastic pipe.
They can be installed on either 22mm or 15mm pipe. The body of the pump is 22mm but if you are installing on 15mm pipe we supply 22 x 15mm 3 piece reducing sets to enable installation on 15mm pipe.
How to use a 3 Piece Reducing Set:
Pumps are easy to install:
Cut 115mm of straight pipe.
Insert the pump.
Tighten Compession joints.
Plug in transformer & connect to pump.
It is important that you do not hold the barrel of the pump when tightening the compression joints. Do not use PTFE Tape or jointing compound.
Pumps can be installed on specific feeds which need a boost (i.e. on the run to a shower with low pressure) or for a whole house solution, pumps can be installed close to your hot water cylinder, after your vent pipe.
It is important that you DO NOT install the pump before the vent pipe as this will mean the hot water will be pumped up the vent pipe and into the cold tank.
See FAQs below for more information regarding where to install pumps.
First Choice for most customers:
SP2B (Auto) pump – Single Boost a Whole House Solution
The diagram below shows how to boost the hot feed for the whole house.
SP2B (Auto) pump – Single Boost a Protected Flow Solution
The diagram below shows how to boost the hot feed for a specific shower / tap.
SP2B (Auto) pump & SP2U (Auto) pump – Balanced Flow a Whole House Solution
The diagram below shows how to boost both the hot & cold feeds for the whole house whilst keeping the system balanced.
SP2B (Auto) pump & SP2U (Auto) pump – Balanced Flow a Whole House Solution
The diagram below shows how you can install pumps in different locations. Pumps can be linked with extension cables.
SP2B (Auto) pump & SP2U (Auto) pump – Balanced Flow a Protected Flow Solution
The diagram below shows how to boost both the hot & cold feeds for a specific shower / tap.
A single WRight Choice micro booster on the cold inlet of a combi boiler will help protect your boiler even if someone turns another tap on in your house or your neighbours share a service to your house. Combi Boilers are designed to switch off if the pressure falls.
To maximise the benefit of the pressure boost we normally recommend a double boost, a second pump can be bought for less than half the cost of the first pump.
The maximum flow from a Combi Boiler is determinedby its KW rating and in winter because water is colder the output is less:
24KW Combi Boiler gives 11.5 Litres a minute (2 Showers)
30KW Combi Boiler gives 14.5 Litres a minute (2.4 Showers)
42KW Combi Boiler gives 20 Litres a minute (3 Showers)
The diagram below shows how to double boost the mains cold feed into a combi boiler if you have low mains pressure.
Option 2 of 2 – Hot Water Boost
The WRight Choice micro booster is the only pump on the market that can boost the pressure on the hot side of a combi boiler but you must not boost more than the maximum number of showers determined by your boiler.
The WRight Choice micro booster cannot create hot water but it can take enough hot water to create the perfect shower. A good shower needs enough water to wash away the suds and enough pressure to give a nice forceful spray pattern. We aim to give 6 litres a minute and a minimum of 3 metres head to achieve this.
The diagram below shows how a pump on the hot pipe can protect and boost the pressure to any tap or shower.
The WRight Choice micro booster is the only pump on the market that can boost the pressure on both the hot side and cold side of a Megaflow.
MegaFlows were introduced as a standard for new properties in order to eliminate low pressure problems but in many cases this is the cause of low pressure problems.
If the water pressure entering your home is low or you need to feed a remote upstairs shower or tap a WRight Choice Micro Booster will protect and boost the pressure.
A Wright Choice micro booster cannot create water but you can protect and boost showers or taps in your home up to the maximum flow entering your property.
Wen others open taps in your home, provided you do not exceed the maximum incoming flow, the shower or tap you protect will continue to flow strong and good.
A single WRight Choice micro booster on the cold inlet of a shower will protect your shower even if someone turns another tap on in your house or if your neighbours share a service to your house.
Although one pump is normally enough, the diagram below shows how you can double boost the mains cold supply to an electric shower.
Elctric Showers are designed to switch off if the pressure falls. The maximum flow of an electric shower is determined by its KW power rating and in winter because the cold water is colder the output is less:
7.5KW Electric Shower – 3.5 Litres a minute
9.8KW Electric Shower – 4.7 Litres a minute
12.5KW Electric Shower – 6.0 Litres a minute
Electricity is a very expensive way of heating water so a typical family wanting the luxury of a 6.0 litre a minute shower will spend £230 a year just to heat the water up.
Heating with gas and changing to a ShowerPowerBooster boosted shower could save the cost of the electricity wasted every year.
The WRight Choice Radiator Booster is the perfect solution if you have a dead room or a room in your house that is hard to reach.
The WRight Choice Radiator Booster is the perfect solution for making the end of run radiator or group of radiators on a ‘lazy’ leg which never runs hot, run hot. They can be used for extending the central heating systems to a newly built extension.
Two Automatic Pumps:
One Automatic Pump & One Manual Pump:
Pumps located in different areas of a house can be linked together with extension cables. 3m extension cables allow the pumps to be up to 15m away from the power source.
Please note that there are 3 cables running between the pumps – you will need a minimum of 3 extension cables if pumps are over 3m apart.
Airlocks prevent the full effect of the pumps being received as energy needed to increase flow and pressure is wasted in pushing air about. As the air moves the resistance to flow changes and this can cause pulsing.
This is a real report from a customer survey:
January 14th 2015 – Mr Harrison – Wymondham Norfolk
Problem Reported – Pulsing pump
Reason for Problem
In order to feed the shower a 22mm pipe had been taken from a point near the hot water cylinder – up into the loft – across the loft – and down to the shower. This effectively trapped a column of air which had no way of being vented from the pipe installed.
Solution to Problem
Mr Harrison connected the pipe to the hot water vent pipe in the loft, with the pipe falling all the way to the shower, eliminating trapped air. I received this email just a couple of hours after I left him:
Thanks for coming around this evening it was nice to meet you, I have changed all the pipework around and so far, so good, we have had two showers and it hasn’t pulsed so looking good. I like fitting these pumps now!
In a typical gravity system, the water feeds from the bottom of the cold water tank into the bottom of the hot water cylinder – hot water exits from the hot water cylinder.
From the top of the hot water cylinder, hot water travels horizontally through a 22mm pipe. There is a vent pipe which terminates above the cold water tank, and a pipe which may go down to feed your shower, or your shower may be fed off the vent pipe in the loft.
When you fit a SPB the pump may want to pump double your normal flow. The pump is supplied with water from the cylinder, providing the water from the cylinder can be doubled, the pump pumps continuously.
If the water that is supplied is restricted then the pump starts off pumping what it can get from the cylinder plus some water in the vent pipe. When the vent pipe runs out of water the pump draws a mixture of air and water and it spins ineffectively, so although the motor is still running, the pump stops pumping water.
When the pump stops pumping water the flow from the cylinder fills the vent pipe up again, the pump is re-primed and starts pumping again – cycle repeats.
The sound of the pump varies as the speed increases (trying to pump air), and then decreases (pumping water).
If you disconnect the tap or shower you are trying to improve you could check the flow through a ‘free discharge’.
If this is your problem then look to potential problems in and around your hot water cylinder:
The stop tap on the cold water feed to the bottom of the cylinder is the normal culprit. It may be partially closed or corroded and often you find a new gate valve with an old gate valve left in place on the cold pipe feeding the cylinder.
Other things to look out for is scale in the hot water cylinder, in the cold water tank, airlocks in the cold feed.
Excessive Back Pressure
If you have a mixer tap or shower which is pulsing then reducing the back pressure may stop it pulsing.
If you do not have a mixer then pulsing pumps are either due to lack of water or in very rare occasions air in the pipes.
There are several steps to identifying where you might have created excessive back pressure and its best to look at the easiest things first unless there are obvious causes of air locks.
The shower head is not the cause of fluctuating pressures but changing the shower head could solve the problem. A shower head will create a back pressure as it restricts the flow deliberately to accelerate the water to create a nice spray pattern. Change the shower head, remove any flow restrictors in the shower head and you may reduce the back pressure and solve the problem. If you physically remove the shower head and it still fluctuates then you know changing the shower head could solve the problem. If it’s a tap it could be a gauze filter on the tap spout that needs removing.
If it is not the shower head then could it be the shower hose is inadequate. Some shower hoses have an internal bore of 6mm or 8mm and needs to be replaced with a high bore shower hose (minimum internal bore 10mm). Remove the shower hose and the flow still pulses then change to a 10mm hose (but change to a high flow shower hose anyway as it is a good way to reduce hydraulic losses)
Check the filter in the tap spout and consider cleaning it or removing altogether.
Mixers are less likely to pulse if you pump both hot and cold but for most people a single pump on the hot gives good shower and the mixer does not pulse. Many mixers which pulse at one temperature and pressure are fine if you change the temperature and pressure.
Thermostatic Mixers have a cassette which may be oversensitive
A thermostatic mixer will try to balance the hot and cold feeds. The mixer will therefore restrict the flows to achieve this.
When a mixer has not reached the temperature it wants, it will prioritise the hot port until hot water arrives. Once hot water arrives at the mixer it will reduce the flow on the hot port and increase the flow on the cold port to try to give the temperature you need. If the cassette is slow to act it may overcompensate and open the cold port too much and close down the hot too much resulting in fluctuating temperature and pressure (pulsing pump).
The degree of fluctuation is affected by temperatures, pressures, and differential pressures between the incoming hot and cold. The shower head and shower hose can also have a dramatic effect, and any single change can eliminate the problem.
We have found that changing from a single pump on the hot to pumps on the hot and cold often solves this problem, reducing temperatures can also work. However, the single most effective solution is to change a shower head to a WrightChoice shower head.
There are plenty of ways to change things. The temperature of a typical hot shower is 42 degrees centigrade. The following table compares the volume of hot and cold water to achieve a 6 litre a minute shower at 42 degrees centigrade:-
Requirements for a 6 litre a minute shower at 42 degrees centigrade:
Temperature of Hot Temperature of Cold
65 Degrees C 15 Degrees C
54% 3.24 litres/min 46% 2.76 litres/min
3.3 metres head 4.4 metres head
60 Degrees 15 Degrees
60% 3.6 litres/min 40% 2.4 litres/min
2.25 metres head 3.8 metres head
55 Degrees 15 Degrees
67.5% 4.05 litres/min 32.5% 1.95 litres/min
2.9 metres head 1.9 metres head
45 Degrees 15 Degrees
90% 5.4 litres/min 10% .6 litres min
2.1 metres head 4.2 metres head
Troubleshooting and maintenance guides for thermostatic mixers will typically state their mixers will deal with differential pressure of 5:1 however SPB know from experience that some mixers do struggle and within the same brand, make, and model, some mixers cope, others do not.
For one particular customer with a Bristan Shower Mixer he persevered and was delighted when he achieved a ‘perfect shower’ when he double boosted hot and cold to effectively give him mains pressure on the hot and on the cold.
Big pumps can be noisy but being noisy can also be because the pump is installed wrongly and the noise is cavitation.
Cavitation is the formation of bubbles or cavities in liquid, developed in areas of relatively low pressure around an impeller. The imploding or collapsing of these bubbles trigger intense shockwaves inside the pump, causing significant damage to the impeller and/or the pump housing.
Traditional shower pumps can create a suction of 1.5 metres of head (0.15 bars), they need to draw water directly from a hot water cylinder through a pipe to the pump only. You need an Essex or Surrey Flange drilled into the cylinder. Fit them on the pipe connected to the vent pipe and they will suck in air, fit them too far away from the cylinder and the head loss in the pipework results in cavitation.
I visited a home in Buckinghamshire on the 5th June 2016 and found a classical example of cavitation where a pump was installed in a convenient place in a bathroom – the pump was very noisy, suffering from cavitation and was pulling air in. It was on its last legs, and was the 3rd pump installed in recent times.
Traditional Pump In Bathroom Cavitates and Draws Air
A ShowerPowerBooster is not a traditional pump and is designed to never cavitate. You can fit a SPB anywhere.
For this installation I recommended:
1.0 Throw the traditional pump in the bin and put the pipework back the way it was.
2.0 Install a SP22S to boost hot and cold to the problem shower in the bathroom only. This will increase the flow to the shower from 2 litres a minute to 6 or even 8 litres a minute with the right shower head, and a high flow hose.
3.0 The shower hose from the shower mixer to the shower head (and the bath mixer shower), is only 8mm internal diameter. This has no effect as long as you pass just 2 litres a minute as at present, but as soon as you try to put 6 litres a minute or more the head loss will be such that the flow will be limited to as little as 5 litres a minute.A high flow shower hose is great value for money in getting extra flow and pressure.
4.0 The existing shower head is only suitable for high pressure systems. To maximise the flow and pressure a Wright Choice shower head is recommended.
Simple Solutions to Big Problems.
The flow switch for a ShowerPowerBooster will work with around 100mm of head in a free flowing system as unlike a power shower pump the pump is turned on and off using a magnetised flow paddle (a traditional power shower pump asks for 1,000mm).
The pump activation is not due to pressure differential but at 1.5 litres a minute the water paddle revolves and a hall detector measures the number of times the paddle rotates.
We have sold pumps purely to activate at a low flow to increase the flow to make a bigger pump come on so we know what we sell is good but sometimes the flow is below 1.5 litres a minute before the pump flows so there is need to think of a work around:
Change the shower head – the greatest resistance to flow is often the shower head. We sell an excellent shower head so changing to our shower head will often give you enough flow to kick start the pump.
Change the shower hose – if you have a shower hose with an internal bore of 8mm or less, the only fit place for it is in a bin. We sell low cost shower hoses with 10mm internal bore.
Drop the shower head to start it flowing at or above 1.5 litres a minute, then return it to height when the pump starts.
Bypass the flow switch and turn the pump on and off manually at a 3-pin socket, or simply make it come on and off by wiring it into the light switch.
Use a remote control to turn it on and off (we sell these for £10).
Put a second pump on mains cold if the shower receives gravity hot and mains cold. The pump on the cold will automatically turn on the hot through the power bridge.
However, if you would like a plumber to fit the booster for you then check our list/map of plumbers experienced in fitting our shower power boosters.
The WRight Choice brand ethos is to give you the best solution, and if that solution is simply to change the showerhead and hose rather than fit a pump I sell the best showerheads and hoses to achieve this.
I only sell products that I would want to buy myself if I had the same objective as my customer – maximum performance at minimum cost.
We tested and evaluated showerheads and hoses in the research laboratories of Cranfield University, and we were amazed at the difference a change of showerhead or hose could make to the shower flow. The best showerheads, hoses and mixers for low-pressure situations are very good and the worst very bad, but how would you know a good or bad showerhead or hose or mixer just by looking at it? You cannot, but we test them for you, and guarantee to only sell products which work well with low pressures and all systems.
• Shower Heads that maximise your showering performance whatever flow and pressure you have.
• High Flow Shower Hoses (many new shower mixers come with shower hoses with less than 10mm internal diameter).
• If you start with low pressure my pumps can be used in multiple combinations to incrementally achieve the desired objective whatever your plumbing system.
I have set up a website with information including videos dedicated to Shower Heads, Shower Hoses, and Shower Mixer selection.
A good shower can be achieved by selling you a hydraulically inefficient showerhead, a hydraulically inefficient shower hose, a hydraulically inefficient shower mixer. As long as you also buy a big shower pump (over 20 times bigger than a SPB), you might have a good shower. The same good shower can be achieved by selling hydraulically efficient showerheads, hoses, mixers, and a small pump.
Even with the best shower hose, a shower can be spoilt by a bad showerhead. Our showerheads give wonderful multispray patterns suitable for any type of shower system as they can be set to 6 different modes to suite personal preference and any type of shower system.
Shower hoses come in different internal diameters. A high-flow shower hose allows higher flows, and will not lose you nearly as much pressure as a small-bore shower hose. Small-bore shower hoses are sometimes cheaper and are great for small electric showers and combi-boilers with high mains pressure. Changing to a high-flow shower hose may have a huge effect. Low-flow, small-bore shower hoses are not advertised as small-bore, and many customers buy them by mistake because they do not know that 2 types of shower hose exist. If the internal diameter of the shower hose is less than 10mm diameter, then it is not a high-flow shower hose.
Showerheads for electric showers create fine jets of water and need much higher pressures to operate (minimum 1 bar = 10 metres head). If you have 1 metre head, there are many showerheads which are designed for that pressure. They will never be as good as a boosted shower, but put a showerhead which is designed to operate on 10 metres head and the results are obvious. Buying the right showerhead is not easy unless you know what you are looking for, but ‘great for combi-boilers’ is a giveaway that it is only suitable for high-pressure systems. A good showerhead will probably have 100 jets and a multi spray pattern. People can buy many showerheads before they get it right, but a good showerhead is as important as a good shower hose or mixer.
Mixer valves blend hot and cold water to give you the right temperature for your shower. Many mixer valves can easily balance hot and cold water pressures in the ratio of 4 & 5 to 1 – others are not very good at dealing with differential pressure and will allow temperatures to fluctuate widely when someone turns a tap on or off elsewhere. Buying a cheap mixer tap is not necessarily a problem, and some of the worst performers are expensive mixer brands, because the parts of the mixers you cannot see can cause considerable head loss.
Yes, see the list of upcoming shows and exhibitions.