Central Heating Radiator Booster

In many homes radiators are not working because of air locks and the WrightChoice Radiator booster will solve this problem.

Our pumps are designed to work in very aggressive environments and we test our pumps to 8 bars pressure, working pressure at 100 degrees centigrade is 4 bar, they will not cavitate, burn out, can pump against closed valves, run dry, work 24/7, use just 12.5 watts of power, and are more efficient than any recirculation pump designed for pumping central heating water.

I have just described the manual version of the Shower Power Booster which we were going to rebrand as the WrightChoice Radiator Booster – our secret is out!

Our pumps come with a filter to stop the pumps jamming but if ever you did need to fix a jammed pump the pumps can be easily serviced without removing the pump.

SP1 Manual Shower Power Booster for Gravity and Mains Pressure. Switch on and off when needed.

The fully automatic version of the shower power booster would simply run and run so its the manual SP1 you need and our customers have used the pumps in different ways. There are many things you may wish to consider for yourself.

Pump Output
A shower power booster will pump more water than your central heating circulation pump so if you let it run full out there is a danger that the radiators that never get hot get too hot and others go cold. A cheap 1/4 turn valve either side of the pump will allow you to perfectly balance your system.

Clearing Air Lock
Our pumps are brilliant for clearing air locks and after you fit them you will often find that the air lock will clear and the system works even when you turn off the pump. Air will accumulate and will collect again so do not take the pump out.

Where to fit the pump
Fit the pump either on the pipe upstream of the pipe downstream of the radiator or radiator you which to boost.

How to control the pump
1.0 Simply plug and unplug the transformer.
2.0 Add a Radio Remote (we sell these)
3.0 Use a hot water thermostat so the pump comes on when another radiator or pipe gets hot
4.0 Connect it to the power supply to the existing central heating pump so it turns off and on at the same time.
5.0 Use a standard room stat so the pump only comes on when required.

In my own home I have a radiator which I only want to come on when we have guests so I use 1.0 and 2.0.

In Northern Ireland has used 3.0, 4.0, and 5.0. The AC supply to the transformer is linked to the existing central heating pump, the room stat and hot water thermostat control the pump make and break the safe 12 volt dc power supply to the pump.

The choice of how you control your pump will be whatever suites your situation.

The WRight Choice Radiator Booster is the perfect solution for making the end of run radiator or group of radiators or group of radiators on a ‘lazy’ leg which never runs hot, run hot.

They can be used for extending the central heating systems to a newly built extension.

SP1-Central-Heating-Flow-Booster




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